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Chardonnay Musqué is a varietal clone Niagara does very well -- perhaps a defining varietal of the region -- and this example from Cave Spring shows just how good it can be. Crisp and clean, not least from fermenting in steel tanks, it features aromas and flavours of peach and lemongrass, a combination of stone and citrus fruit leading to pithy bitterness on the extended finish. But while refreshing, it's also substantial in the mouth, and overall it comes across like a pleasant mix of Riesling and Gewurz without the often cloying sweetness of the latter. An exceptional value, very well done.