Special Report: Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Previews: Annata, Etichetta and Vigna 2018, Riserva 2017, plus back vintages

Drawing 2018 vintage connections between breezy Annata and resolute Cru, overall less “Mediterranean as a vintage,” high acid 2017 Riserva plus retrospectives with Col d’Orcia and Biondi-Santi

By Michael Godel


Benvenuto Brunello 2022


In November of 2022 the latest edition of Benvenuto Brunello was held in Montalcino. As with any Anteprime the main purpose and focus was to present the latest vintage of Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wines. As a journalist the goal was to taste as many iterations as time permits in just over two days time. Looking back now the 2018 vintage for the sangiovese of Montalcino are a unique set, apropos of colour which is ironic considering this anteprima fell on the heels of the region’s first Rosso di Montalcino event held last June. “Red Montalcino” showcased the 2020 Rosso vintage and hue was the operative word, for style and just how we think about these appellative DOC wines. Fast forward to November 2022 and journalists from around the world were seeing red once again, yet this time the syndicate of sangiovese concerned the similarly tailored Brunello. I have been covering Montalcino vintages for more than a decade (and buying/drinking them for two-plus) but don’t recall such a crystal-clear, joyous and immediately gratifying set of wines. There are of course several variables involved and many 2018s are structured to age but we must always be reminded that sangiovese are like snowflakes. No two are exactly alike and yet there is a thread that binds a 2018 Brunello to its peers. Never before has tasting nearly 200 Brunello provided such a pleasing experience.

Related – Simply Red: Rosso di Montalcino


 

Looking north from Montalcino


The list of adjectives this report alone will use to describe the 2018 coterie of Brunello di Montalcino is long, winding and synonymic. There will be tasting notes referring to these sangiovese as accessible, amenable, beautiful, breathable, bright, crushable, drinkable, effusive, fluid, halcyon, handsome, lithe, open-knit, traditional and transparent. The vernacular goes on and on to describe this vintage. Many ’18s are fit for early consumption because of producers abiding by the fruit available to design wines reflective of the climatic conditions of the season. Yet there are some pockets of Montalcino where a more serious and structured Brunello could be made and those who took advantage of this opportunity were able to make wines that will endure amongst the best of the best. The areas of Canalicchio and Tavernelle are frazioni where nature and climate conspired symbiotically but we must also look at pockets to Montalcino village’s immediate north by northeast, as well as west by northwest. Southerly vineyards showed remarkable consistency for sangiovese because of less hydraulic and overall stress. There are also other valleys and rifts here and there from which top wines were produced. For the vineyards around the northerly Montosoli hill the 2018 season may have been less of a hyped one – but these are consistently wines in the regions’s upper echelon because that promontory of a cru has been holding such a distinct advantage in recent times.

Related – Montalcino Previews: 2020 and 2019 Rosso, 2017 Brunello Annata, Vigna and 2016 Riserva DOCG


With Tommaso Cortonesi and Francesco Ripaccioli


My discussions in Montalcino with four prominent and experienced yet precocious producers points to a vintage summation that supports if also adjusts the aforementioned general theorem. First up is Caprili’s Giacomo Bartolommei. “The weather was the complete opposite of 2017. Cooler temperatures and some winter snow, even in the southern part of Montalcino,” he tells me. “Also good rainfall during the year with lower average temperatures.” Bartolommei sees the 2018 Brunelli as “lighter wines but with good potential for aging, much like 2013. Those are showing beautifully today.” Giacomo is quite convinced the ’18s will do the same. Adds Katia Nussbaum from San Polino. “I don’t yet have the 2018s under my skin and you need that. We only just bottled this past September. We’ll see.” There are always two sides to every story.


Sommelier Tasting in Montalcino


Tommaso Cortonesi contemplates the thought. “A vintage where you can recognize the link between the producer and the terroir,” he begins. “Because it wasn’t one of the warmer (recent) vintages and 2018 does not show its potential in the first two years in bottle. The wines of 2007 were like this.” So interesting to see different producers trying to make connections with the past. “But 2018 has a deep link with the terroir. I taste the real Galestro soil from the southeast of Montalcino, the soil of Poggiarelli.” Cortonesi explains that it is the northern sector that usually speaks with the greatest clarity but in 2018 others zones did this, and in balance.


Tasting with Michaela Morris


As for Canalicchio di Sopra’s Francesco Ripaccioli, his first harvest pick was on September 10th – a green one. The last rain took place on September 16th and then the Tramontana wind arrived, right on time, to dry the grapes. The later or second pick was on September 20th and at a time when Ripaccioli was looking for “dimension” in the grapes. Concentration of sugars and acidity also occurred but the vintage was not one of chronologically developed phenolic maturity. So at harvest Francesco considered this ripeness factor to be a 7.5 or an 8 on a scale of 10. Three passes of selection were made, to achieve the best possible outcome. “Remember,” explains Ripaccioli, “ten doesn’t exist and I don’t want to reach it. The pH would be too high. Maybe 8.5 is a number to reach.” In any case without the winds Francesco admits the vintage would have been a disaster.


Montalcino sommeliers


My trip to Montalcino this past November was one of the shorter, quicker and fastidious ones with less time afforded to paying estate visits. My arrival was late in the evening ahead of the two-day Benvenuto Brunello sommelier tasting held in the Chiostro Museo Montalcino. Flight delays were the root cause and were it not for the hand of an angel (that being Chiara and if you know her then you know what I mean), well, I might still be waiting in Firenze. At the conclusion of each of the two tasting days there were visits paid to Biondi-Santi and Col d’Orcia. Each involved memorable retrospective seminars, discussions and tastings. The first at Biondi-Santi was with CEO Giampiero Bertolini and oenologist Federico Radi. We looked at Tenuta Greppo 2016 Annata, Riserva and the 1999. The next day was with Conte Francesco Marone Cinzano, his son Santiago Marone Cinzano and Filippo Bartolotta. Father and son gave a most poignant retrospective look at the history of Montalcino before pouring six Rosso and Brunello on the ‘8s dating back to 1968. The breakdown for Godello’s 2022 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Previews are as follows: 96 Annata, 28 Etichetta and 22 Vigna 2018, 20 Riserva 2017, plus 14 back vintages. That adds up to 180 wines tasted and reviewed across two and a half days in November.


Day One, Benvenuto Brunello


Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Agostina Pieri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Albatreti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Altesino Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Argiano Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Armilla Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Beatesca Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Bellaria Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Camigliano Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Campogiovanni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Capanne Ricci – Tenimenti Ricci Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Caprili Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Carpineto Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Casanova delle Cerbaie Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Casa Raia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Casanova Di Neri Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Tommasi Casisano Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Castello Romitorio Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Castello Tricerchi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Castiglion Del Bosco Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Celestino Pecci Brunello Di Montalcino Docg 2018

Cerbaia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Col d’Orcia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Col Di Lamo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Collemattoni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Collosorbo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Corte Dei Venti Brunello Di Montalcino 2018

Cortonesi La Mannella Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Elia Palazzesi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Fanti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Fattoi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Fattoria Dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Fossacolle Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Franco Pacenti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Gianni Brunelli Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Le Chiuse di Sotto 2018

Giodo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Gorelli Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Il Palazzone Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Il Poggione Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Innocenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

La Casaccia di Franceschi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

La Colombina Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

La Fornace Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

La Fortuna Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

La Lecciaia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

La Màgia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Lambardi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

La Rasina Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Le Chiuse Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Le Ragnaie Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Lisini Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Maddalena Cordella Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Madonna Nera Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Martoccia di Brunelli Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Mastrojanni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Maté Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Mocali Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Patrizia Cenconi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Pian delle Querci Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Pian delle Vigne Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Piancornello Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Pietroso Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Pinino Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Podere Bonacchi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Podere Brizio Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Poggio Antico Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Poggio dellAquila Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Poggio di Sotto Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Paradiso di Cacuci Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Poggio Landi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Poggio Lucina Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Ridolfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Roberto Cipresso Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

San Polino Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

San Lorenzo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

San Carlo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Salvioni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Scopetone Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Scopone Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Sesti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Talenti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Tenuta Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Tenuta Poggio il Castellare Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Tenuta San Giorgio Ugolforte Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Terre Nere Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Ucceliera Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Val di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Ventolaio Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018

Voliero Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018


Montalcino, direction southeast


Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Etichetta 2018

Camigliano Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Paessagio Inatesso 2018

Castello Di Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Alle Mura 2018

Castiglion Del Bosco Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Campo Del Drago 2018

Cava d’Onice Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Colombaio 2018

Celestino Pecci Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio al Carro 2018

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Progetto Prime Donne 2018

La Fiorita Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG NO 2018

La Fornace Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Origini 2018

La Lecciaia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Manapetra 2018

La Màgia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Ciliegio 2018

La Rasina Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Persante 2018

Le Ragnaie Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Vecchia 2018

Lisini Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Ugolaia 2017

Mocali Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG La Raunate 2018

Patrizia Cenconi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Ofelio 2018

Podere Bonacchi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Molino di Suga 2018

Ridolfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Donna Rebecca 2018

Rodolfo Cosimi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Bramante Cosimi 2018

Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Piaggione 2018

San Polo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Podernovi 2018

Talenti Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Piero 2018

Tassi Di Franci Franca Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tassi Franci 2018

Tenuta Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Fiore del Vento 2018

Tenuta Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Fior di Mellioto 2018

Tenuta Corte Pavone – Loacker Wine Estates Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Campo Marzo 2018

Val di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio al Granchio 2018

Ventolaio Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Campo dei Colti 2018

Villa Poggio Salvi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Pomona 2018


Day two, Benvenuto Brunello

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Vigna 2018

Altesino Brunello Di Montalcino Montosoli DOCG 2018

Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Alle Mura Vigna Marrucheto 2018

Bellaria Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Assunto 2018

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna La Casaccia 2018

Canalicchio Di Sopra Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2018

Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna La Casa 2018

Castello Romitorio Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Filo Di Seta 2018

Cortonesi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG I Poggiarelli 2018

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Fiore 2018

Il Poggiolo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Terra Rosa 2018

Le Gode Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Montosoli 2018

Le Ragnaie Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Casanovina Montosoli 2018

Le Ragnaie Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Paso Del Lume Spento 2018

Mastrojanni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigno Loreto 2018

Poggio Landi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Chiuso del Lupo 2018

San Polino Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Helichrysum 2018

San Polo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vignavecchia 2018

Tassi Di Franci Franca Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna Colombaio 2018

Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG P. 56 Oliveto 2018

Tenuta Silvio Nardi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Manachiara 2018

Tiezzi Vigna Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Soccorso 2018

Val di Suga Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Vigna del Lago 2018

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Poggio alle Mura 2017

Caparzo Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Carpineto Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Casanuova Delle Cerbaie Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Vigna Montosoli 2017

Celestico Pecci Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Fattoi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

La Cassacia Di Franceschi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Le Chiuse Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Diecianni 2017

Mocali Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Paradiso Di Cacuci Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Patrizia Cencioni Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Pian Delle Querci Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Poggio dell’Aquila Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Roberto Cipresso Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Salicutti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Teatro 2017

San Polino Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2017

Sesti Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Phenomena 2017

Tommasi Casisano Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Colombaiolo 2017


Filippo Bartolotta, Conte Francesco Marone Cinzano and Santiago Marone Cinzano

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG (Older Vintages)

Capanna Di Cencioni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Nicco 2017

La Màgia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2017

La Màgia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Ciliegio 2017

Biondi-Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2016

Biondi-Santi Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Tenuta “Greppo” 2016

Col d’Orcia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Al Vento 2008

Biondi-Santi Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 1999

Col d’Orcia Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG Poggio Al Vento 1998

Col d’Orcia Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva DOCG Poggio Al Vento 1988

Col d’Orcia Brunello Di Montalcino 1978

Col d’Orcia Brunello Di Montalcino 1968

La Màgia Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2021

Biondi-Santi Rosso Di Montalcino DOC Tenuta “Greppo” 2019

Col d’Orcia Rosso Di Montalcino DOC 2018

 

Good to go!

godello


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