BC Critics’ Picks – April 2015
Our monthly BC Critics’ Picks is the place to find recent recommendations from our intrepid and curious BC critics – wines that cross geographical boundaries, toe traditional style lines and may push limits – without being tied to price or distribution through BCLDB or VQA stores. All are currently available for sale in BC.
What’s on our minds this month? From the looks of the picks submitted below, a lot. We’re dividedly focused on hockey, food, travels and Earth Day, but united in focus on interesting, unique, off-the-path wines. This month we’re excited about well-priced and BBQ-primed zinfandel, aristocratic Alsatian gewürztraminer, idiosyncratic Jura vin Jaune and a BS-free sustainable sauvignon blanc/semillon from the Okanagan – plus others.
And if you happen to be watching the playoffs, while on the road, contemplating dinner and want to drink a local wine – this month we’re focused on you. Cheers (and go Canucks).
Cheers ~ TR
It’s the Stanley Cup Playoffs in most of Canada so this month’s picks are all about calming down. The wine business, like hockey reporting, isn’t exempt from hyperbole so this month’s picks are about relaxing, just a bit, and drinking something authentic, understated and supportive to whichever team turns your crank. Go Canucks.
A wine that screams Tuscan and delicious most any night is the Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2012. Suave with fine intensity and that signature savoury Bolgheri streak, it calls for pre-game spaghetti and meatballs.
Following the comfortable theme, zinfandel works for hockey game gatherings and a current favourite is the Edmeades Zinfandel 2011 from its peppery, blackberry jam nose to its dense, sweet finish. Fire up the barbecue.
Finally a bargain you can find in private wine shops is Radio Boka 2012. Boka hails from Valencia, the home of oranges and paella, and in a similar fashion this red is as comforting as both. It’s dirt cheap, and even 30 percent cheaper in Ontario, but when you come from mountainsides and head-pruned, 25-50 year-old vines, well let’s just say it’s a good buy.
Rhys Pender, MW
Here are three wines that are just freaking delicious and worth seeking out.
The first is an old favourite, the Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2012. I’ve been lucky enough to try cellared versions of this wine for decades as my dad often had a few older bottles kicking around when I was growing up. It was one of the few wines that got aged. It can easily go for a decade and there are probably few wines in the world that are as good a value bet for the cellar. And a secret, it is much more expensive in Australia than it is here in Canada!
I recently got the chance to visit the stunning vineyards of Alsace and one of my visits was with the charming Catherine Faller of Domaine Weinbach. We went through a lineup of 14 impressive wines, all of which ooze complexity, power and intensity. The Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminer Cuvée Laurence 2012 was particularly delicious, especially the bottle I had later with foie gras.
Another great Alsatian producer I visited was Barmes-Buecher. Such a charming family and the wines do not disappoint for being excitingly unique and interesting. One of their wines that has appeared from time to time in BC is the Rosenberg Riesling 2012, with its great texture and length. Worth seeking out.
Halibut season accounts for my three white choices this month. From Campania, the captivating Masseria Frattasi Acquafredda Fiano Beneventano IGT 2013, a rich but lively fiano for halibut marinated in lemongrass, lime leaf and coconut milk, then crisply grilled.
For the linear but highly flavourful Colle Stafano Verdicchio di Matelica DOC 2013, halibut needs nothing more than a generous squeeze of lemon before slipping into a bamboo steamer.
For this magical Vin Jaune 2000 from savant winemaker Stéphane Tissot the halibut needs a beurre blanc made with the Vin Jaune, or serve after the fish with Compte cheese, another famous gift from the Jura.
With April’s burst into spring, I’m always reminded how lucky we are to live in this corner of the globe, and what an outstanding and awe-inspiring diversity of environments that makes up our province. With Earth Day falling this week, it’s a perfect time to set to drinking wines that are purposefully grown and produced with sustainable measures in mind.
Claus Preisinger is one of Austria’s hottest winemakers. Youthful, driven, modern, consciousness and innovative – his aim is to create that typify terroir, and his vineyards are completely biodynamic to honour that. Basic 2011 is just that – a beauty blend of zweigent and blaufrankisch that pairs perfectly with blistered crust margarita pizza with arugula.
An equally dedicated producer is Le Clos du Tue-Boeuf, a project via Thierry and his older brother Jean-Marie. Together they farm the organic and biodynamic vines in Touraine, making charming, refreshing wines like La Butte 2013, a gamay with tart cranberry, perfumed tayberry and lissom body. Ideal with lentils and cured meats. #GoGamayGo.
The very best way to go green this Earth Day is to buy and support local producers, and save on shipping costs and goods around the globe. Lock & Worth Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon 2013 is a low-interventionist, herbal and stony textured white, crisp and pure and ideal for toasting our beautiful growing region.
WineAlign in BC
In addition to our monthly Critics’ Picks report, we also publish the popular shortlist 20 Under $20, as well as the BC Wine Report, a look at all things in the BC Wine Industry. Lastly, Anthony Gismondi closes out each month with his Final Blend column – an expert insight into wine culture and trends, honed by more than 25 years experience as an influential and global critic.
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