If I Could Buy Only One – April 26th Vintages Release
We asked our writers, “If you could buy only one wine from the April 26th release, which one would it be and why?”
Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2022, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Mark Anthony Group
David Lawrason – I have long been a fan of the oak aged semillon-sauvignon blancs coming from the old vines of the Rosomel Vineyard. They are a hidden gem in Niagara, emulating the style of fine grand cru classe whites from Bordeaux that cost twice as much. This riper vintage does not disappoint. Expect fairly generous, classic fresh fig, lime, candle wax and light barrel spice on the nose. It is medium-full bodied, nicely firm and almost juicy with very good acidity, minerality and considerable bitterness on the finish. The length is excellent. Please note that my colleagues all put this wine forward in this week’s newsletter.
Kew Marsanne 2020, Ontario, Canada
$19.95, Arterra Wines Canada
Sara d’Amato – More of a unicorn than a usual suspect, marsanne is more at home basking in the sun of France’s Rhône valley, often cozying up to roussanne in a blend but here on the Beamsville Bench, it steps into the spotlight solo – pulling it off with quiet confidence. It’s ripe but restrained, distinctive but not showy, perfectly matured and ready to drink.
Sebestyen Kadarka 2022, Hungary
$28.95, Con-nois-seur Wine Imports Inc
John Szabo – My only one this week is a taste of both the past and the future of Hungarian wine. Kadarka was once the most planted red variety in the Carpathian Basin before quantity gained importance over quality. It’s challenging to grow, like pinot noir, and also produces a pale, light, spicy style of wine that until recently, few wanted. But with a shift in world tastes and a focus on original and singular wines from indigenous grapes, it’s seeing a resurgence, especially in the region of Szekszárd, south of Budapest where it thrives on deep loess soils. Try the Sebestyen Kadarka 2022 Szekszárd for an authentic taste of what the grape is all about, with typically pale colour, sour raspberry flavours, juicy, bright acids, low alcohol, and low tannins. Chill and enjoy the discovery with paprika-dusted roast chicken.
Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Ontario, Canada
$49.95, Henry Of Pelham Family Estate Winery
Megha Jandhyala – If I could buy just one wine from the LCBO’s latest Vintages release, I would choose Henry of Pelham’s 2017 Cuvée Catherine Carte Blanche. Made with chardonnay harvested from Henry of Pelham’s oldest and best estate vineyards and aged on its lees for 54 months, it is a complex and beguiling wine. I am struck by the elegant symmetry it embodies between richness and lightness, toasty, nutty notes, on the one hand, and bright flavours of succulent orchard and citrus fruit, on the other. The fact that it is in its ideal drinking window right now only adds to the many reasons this wine is my top choice from this release. I recommend pouring this bubbly blind for friends who are unfamiliar with Ontario wine; I am certain it will convert them into ardent supporters!
Famille Perrin L’argnee Gigondas 2021, Rhône, France
$66.95, Charton Hobbs
Michael Godel – Famille Perrin L’Argnée Gigondas 2021, which means “the silver” is a hefty and proper one with an intensity of fruit, stone and earthy terroir that layers adroitly, as they rightly should. Packs a punch, oozes with local character, feels clad iron-ferric, beefy and grippy as any. A truly serious iteration of grenache made ferric on account of the syrah involved, albeit in lesser corresponding percentage. The vines are more than 100 years of age, pre-phylloxera (growing in the necessity of sandy soil) and man do they mean serious Gigondas business. A striking wine by all accounts and yet balanced between its high-level, quality and meaningful parts. As good and unique as it gets for the southern Rhône village for a seriously structured wine that should very well age two decades.
Use these quick links for access to all of our April 26th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – April 26th
Lawrason’s Take – April 26th
Megha’s Picks – April 26th
Michael’s Mix – April 26th
Sara’s Selections – April 26th
