Buyer’s Guide to Vintages March 1st Release

Gretzky’s Art and the Artist, Women in Wine, and the Future Days of Etna
By John Szabo MS, with notes from Sara d’Amato, Megha Jhandyala, David Lawrason, and Michael Godel

Separating the Art from the Artist: Should You be Buying Wayne Gretzky-Branded Wines?

Wine and politics crash again: Citizens are up in arms over Canadian hockey legend Wayne Gretzky’s support for President Donald Trump, which made headlines last month. So now the question is, if you don’t align with Trump, can you separate the art from the artist and continue to buy Gretzky-branded Canadian wines in good conscience? Some thoughts below.

The Vintages March 1 release features Women in Wine. I made my Buyer’s Guide picks before cross referencing the wines included in the thematic, and, as it turned out, five of the seven were made by women. What does this mean? Nothing, really, other than that women can make really good wine, which is hardly news. But wineries, and wine retailers, would be smart to conspicuously promote women-led winery operations for other reasons as well: women purchase somewhere between 60% and 80% of wines worldwide. And they might just be inclined to support other women.

Meanwhile, recent spectacular eruptions have put Mount Etna, Sicily, back in the spotlight, a natural conspiracy no doubt to coincide with my latest report on the region: The Future Days of Etna: Standing Still in a Hurricane, and the accompanying, very rich, Buyer’s Guide, fruit of a visit to the volcano last fall. Incidentally, the future for women winemakers on the mountain is bright compared to the rest of Italy: eight per cent of the region’s next generation producers (under 40 years of age) are women, double the Italian average, and up 50% in the last three years and growing. Still room for improvement.

Read on for more, plus of course the full WineAlign Crü’s top picks — miraculously, all five of us were home to taste this release.

Only a few cases left for March delivery. Exchange cases contain no American wines.

When Wayne Gretzky served as Canada’s honorary captain during the final game of the Four Nations Face-Off in Boston on February 20 (won by Canada), scrutiny of his support for President Donald Trump intensified. Gretzky has openly endorsed Trump, attended parties at Mar-a-Lago, and been photographed wearing a MAGA baseball cap. Seeing one of the country’s greatest sports heroes cozying up to the man who has threatened to annex Canada and start a damaging trade war, not to mention offended most of the democratic world, is, well, disappointing. Some might even say a betrayal.

Canadian-based wine company Andrew Peller Ltd. produces a range of wines and whiskies under the Gretzky brand. So the question is, if you don’t support Trump, can you separate the art (Gretzky’s undeniable skill, leadership, and inspiration on the ice) from the artist (and his political views), and continue to buy Gretzky-branded wines in good conscience?

Whether art and artist can be separated is an age-old question with complicated ethics and significant subjectivity, too deep to go into deeply here. But top line arguments for separation include the prospect of learning valuable lessons and recognizing the positive impact of the art independently, without having to endorse the artist’s behavior or beliefs. In the case of Gretzky, his positive impact on the game and inspiration to generations of athletes is impossible to deny, and unprejudiced by what he believes politically. It’s an easy separation. But we are not talking about his hockey, rather a wine that bears his name.Arguments against being able to separate art from the artist include the position that everything an artist creates is an extension of themselves. In the case of Gretzky, it would be hard to argue that his artistry on ice 30-plus years ago was somehow a foreshadowing of, or stimulated by, his future fascist leanings. I think the ability to play a game is apolitical.

But the more problematic argument, applicable in Gretzky’s case, is that supporting a living artist financially allows them in turn to continue to propagate and promote their beliefs and values outside of their art. Wagner, for example, may have been antisemitic, and more, but going to a concert of his (beautiful) music today in no way directly supports the (dead) man, his antisemitism, his other questionable morals. He can do no more, and his art lives on independently, with many positive lessons to be learned.

Wayne is alive and well, and politically active. I doubt he spends much time hands-on at his eponymous winery in Niagara, but he certainly gets a piece of the action. Buying Wayne Gretzky wine and whisky puts money in his pocket.

I’ve found no evidence that he has financially supported Trump or the Republican party, but in light of his very public endorsements, it wouldn’t be a stretch to believe he has, or will, support Trumpian ideals financially. And at the very least, proceeds from the branding have already added to the coffer out of which the Gretzkys have bought flights to Florida and maybe even a MAGA cap or two.

I find it thus impossible to buy Wayne Gretzky-branded wines or whiskies in good conscience, knowing that my dollars could go to directly supporting ideals that radically diverge from mine. There are infinite other, better, ways to spend my money.

Some will argue that this kind of vote-with-your-dollars harms the wrong people, such as, for example, the employees at Peller’s showcase Wayne Gretzky Winery in Niagara, and the grape growers who rely on the contracts that supply the brand. But Gretzky is just one brand in the vast Peller portfolio, and there are many other great wines therein (and people behind them) to support instead. I would mention Trius, Thirty Bench, and Peller Estates itself, to name but a few. I have no problem buying these wines.

Let me be clear: this is not a call to “cancel” Gretzky, or even less Peller. If I had a child who played hockey, I’d show them highlights of the Stanley Cups of the 1980s, and of the hockey player who’s universally called “The Great One,” as a model to follow for his skill and leadership on the ice.

But I see no sense in monetarily supporting a person who openly shares the beliefs of a man who is a threat to Canada and most of the free world. It’s a tiny gesture to be sure, materially insignificant. But these can add up. Remember the Trump Tower Hotel in downtown Toronto? The owners of the real estate at the time leased the name from Trump for its strong commercial brand in order to sell condos and hotel rooms — DJT had absolutely nothing to do with operations. When that name became a liability in 2016, it was dropped (it’s now known as the St. Regis Hotel). Peller may decide one day that the Gretzky brand is no longer as shiny as it once was and drop it, too, when people stop buying it. The winery, the range of wines, the contracts with growers, all can continue to exist under another name.

This way of thinking extends far beyond this little controversy. Since wine is a non-essential luxury, and there’s so much good wine available, it’s an easy place for any grass roots activist to further their cause. Environmentalism, feminism, diversity, equity and inclusion, social responsibility, minority empowerment, you name it, there’s a winemaker, winery owner or celebrity behind-the-brand out there who shares your beliefs and values, and who would love your support. The Great One has lost mine.

(NB: the views expressed here are the author’s alone and do not necessarily reflect those of WineAlign or any of its other critics.)

The Future Days of Etna: Standing Still in A Hurricane; Plus Special Buyer’s Guide to Etna Rosso and Bianco

See spectacular drone footage of Mt. Etna’s latest eruption courtesy of the Guardian.

Not much more than a couple of decades ago, both the reds and the whites of Etna were unfashionable pale, thin, and acidic, struggling to ripen in all but the hottest vintages. There was, at the time, barely a dozen commercial producers, and selling Etna wines was as challenging as operating a Pizza Pizza franchise in Naples.

Fast forward 25 years into the 21st century, and Etna has become one of the hottest commodities in Italy, Europe and beyond. The Etna Consorzio now counts a staggering 445 producers from just under 1,500 hectares of vineyards.

Nerello mascalese and carricante no longer struggle to reach maturity yet still retain the sort of natural acidity and freshness envied now by so many producers around the globe. This is especially true where the climate has warmed to alarming and unprecedented levels, and historically planted varieties no longer seem quite so suitable, such as merlot in parts of Bordeaux, or, dare I say it, pinot noir on some of the best-exposed hillsides of Burgundy.

Read on for the full report, the soon-to-be-announced upgrade to DOCG, and more, along with the buyer’s guide that includes 25 unmissable rossos and biancos all scoring deep into the 90s.

Buyer’s Guide March 1st: White Wines

Velenosi Villa Angela Pecorino 2023, Marche, Italy
$17.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
Sara d’Amato – A fresh and nervy expression of pecorino with peppery aromatic potency. The sweetness of lime and passion fruit is cut by pithy grapefruit in this characterful white find made from a grape indigenous to the Marche. Should excite fans of sauvignon blanc.

Sheild Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Nelson, New Zealand
$18.95, Vintage Trade Wine
David Lawrason – From cooler Nelson this is several shades of green, but winemaker Trudi Sheild has stitched together a quite refined example. The nose is a bit less intense than expected, the complexity and integration are impressive. Typical grassy/minty green notes mingle with capers, grapefruit, lemon blossom and subtle fresh fig.

Domdechant Werner Hochheim Ortswein Riesling Trocken 2022, Rheingau, Germany
$19.95, Family Wine Merchants
Michael Godel – Spot on Trocken meeting expectation with a mix of extract and tannin that speaks to the qualities of fruit and winemaking.
David Lawrason – This is tight, crisp and dry (trocken indeed) with lemony acidity and some pithy bitterness on the finish. Quite mineral as well. It shows a lovely, quite rich nose of peach-apricot jam, honey, low level petrol and linden florality. Always a fan of this house in the storybook village of Hochheim.
Megha Jandhyala – This reasonable-priced, melodious riesling is pleasing by itself but also pairs well with flavourful foods like Thai or Indian cuisine. I really like its concentration, bright acidity, and long finish. I would buy a few bottles of this for my cellar to pull out for spicy meals.

Antech Réserve Brut Blanquette De Limoux 2022, Languedoc, France
$21.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – A well-priced, classic traditional method bubbly from the origins of the genre in Limoux, Languedoc (yes, since before champagne sparkled), made with the apple-flavoured local mauzac variety. I like the gentle, creamy texture, the lightly caramelized, biscuity fruit, the lingering finish. Lots of pleasure here for the money. Part of the Women in Wine feature.

Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontés 2024, Mendoza, Argentina
$22.95, Profile Wine Group (Barrique)
John Szabo – One of the best in memory from Balbo, intensely perfumed in the torrontés idiom, broad and creamy, flavoursome to be sure. Part of the Women in Wine feature.

Pascal Bouchard Réserve Saint Pierre Bourgogne Aligoté 2022, Burgundy, France
$22.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
John Szabo – Made from aligoté, an unsung variety derided in years past for its high acid but deserving of wider attention today. In a world struggling to keep wines fresh, this is delicious, lively, citrus and stone fruit-flavoured white wine. Full stop.

Buyer’s Guide March 1st: Red Wines

Evel Tinto 2021, Douro, Portugal
$14.95, Family Wine Merchants
Michael Godel – Impressive density and layering of fruit for $15 and just the sort of red that buyers who seek this level of spending should feel comfortable getting their money’s worth and more. A drink-now proposition with enough backbone and grip to stand up to rich, hearty and stick-to-the-ribs cuisine.

Apostolos Thymiopoulos Atma 2021, Macedonia, Greece
$16.95, Victory Wine & Spirits
Michael Godel – Leave it to intrepid winemaker Apostolos Thymiopoulos to put the well-known red variety xinomavro together with the rarest mandilaria for this high elevation Macedonian blend. There is no day or night of the week when this wine will not suffice. A panino or a slice of savoury pie and a glass.
John Szabo – An uncommon blend of xinomavro, native of northern Greece, and mandilaria, more common from Crete, this is stylish and engaging red wine from Thymiopoulos, one of the hottest names in Greek wine today. Ready to roll with some protein off the grill.
Sara d’Amato – A standout at this price, this full and fleshy high-elevation blend of xinomavro and mandilaria, a grape of the Aegean Islands, hails from the renowned Naoussian house of Apostolis Thymiopolous. In his experimental Atma project, Thymiopoulos blends xinomavro with other Greek varieties to highlight its distinctive character. Just shy of opulent, this well-balanced blend features great nervosity with mineral salinity providing textural intrigue along with crushed flowers and vibrant black fruit. Stylish, textured, and impressively long.

Plaimont Géoglyphe Grand Vin 2018, Southwest, France
$19.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason – Certainly one of the more amiable Madirans you will ever experience, and very much worth an exploration. It is deeply hued purple-ruby, showing very impressive mulberry/boysenberry fruit purity and intensity. It is based on the tannic tannat grape so expect the granular finish, but along the way it is generous and almost juicy.
Megha Jandhyala – Whether your friends have tried Madiran before or are new to tannat, this well-priced example is sure to be a memorable addition to a party. It is characteristically structured and intense, with thick and delicious flavours of violets, ripe damson plums, blackberries, spice, cedar and coffee.
Sara d’Amato – Another remarkably youthful 2018 of this release, sourced from old-vine tannat and cabernet sauvignon, made by the important southwestern cooperative union of Plaimont. This naturally spicy red seduces with its supple tannins and abundant red fruit. Peppercorn and licorice along with energetic acidity culminate in an exuberantly fresh and lively finish.

Vignerons De Buxy Buissonnier Mercurey Rouge 2022, Burgundy, France
$33.95, Vinexx
David Lawrason – Mercurey is perhaps the most underrated pinot region of Burgundy, and the Buxy Co-op is likewise underrated. This is a nicely ripe, bright, energized and pure scented pinot with classic red fruit, light barrel toast and spice. It is slightly tart-edged and brittle with firm but not excessive tannin.

Tawse Sketches Cabernet/Merlot 2021, Ontario, Canada
$22.95, Tawse
John Szabo – Tawse got it all right in 2021 for their “entry level” cabernet-merlot blend, finding a juicy milieu between immediate drinkability and a sufficient degree of complexity to keep the punters happy. I’d be pouring this wine at larger parties where a mixed crowd demands something more than the mean, without having to exaggerate spending. Part of the Women in Wine feature.

Balbás Pagos De Balbás 2022, Ribera Del Duero, Spain
$22.95, LE SAVOIR-BOIRE
Michael Godel – A lovely and meandering style of tempranillo with great acidity and, while wood meets expectation, it’s well integrated into the fabric and constitution for a wine of delicate and sneaky strong behaviour.

Catena Paraje Altamira Malbec 2022, Mendoza, Argentina
$23.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – For malbec, power and structure are not an issue. But many are four-square and not much fun. This manages some suppleness and finesse without losing the fruit, herbal, floral essences. It is well structured but fairly smooth and gentle — perhaps a titch sweet (the secret sauce). Part of the Women in Wine feature.

Pedra Cancela Vinha Da Fidalga Alfrocheiro/Touriga Nacional 2018, Dão, Portugal
$27.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – A pure expression of fruit and place, this alfrocheiro and touriga nacional blend from the mountainous Dâo region reveals an inviting, fragrant, botanical nose. A structured and delicately spiced red that has held up surprisingly well in bottle. Features exotic spices, an abundance of succulent red fruit and energetic vigor.

Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2021, British Columbia, Canada
$32.95, Mark Anthony Group
Megha Jandhyala – Mission Hills’ 2021 Reserve merlot is an excellent wine, showing both varietal character and a sense of place. It is drinking beautifully now — its tannins having mellowed into its rich and supple palate, while finely integrated flavours of succulent red fruit, torn violet petals, dried herbs, and spice add to its charm. Moreover, you will be supporting the Canadian wine industry by buying a bottle (or more) of this wine!

Châteaux Vieux Chevrol 2020, Bordeaux, France
$34.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Michael Godel – Leathery, yet quite high acid for merlot from Bordeaux. Expressive of a “lived-in” feeling as well but the wine will continue to age gracefully over the next five years. Spot on.
David Lawrason – This is a nicely fragrant merlot-based Lalande with lifted and nuanced red and blackcurrant fruit, fine outdoorsy shrubby cedar green and modest oak. It is medium-full bodied, fairly dense, juicy and well-structured but not heavy.
Megha Jandhyala – If you like Bordeaux with a bit of age, I recommend this Lalande de Pomerol that is beginning to enter its prime. Organically grown, with a balance of herbs, oak spice, and red and dark fruit, it offers all the hallmarks of Right Bank Bordeaux at a reasonable price.

Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2022, Tuscany, Italy
$46.95, Sylvestre Wines & Spirits
Michael Godel – Now the emergence of the Castagneto Carducci “macchia” to mark, defend and explain a Bolgheri sense of place. Kin to Sassicaia but if you think in terms of “third wines” you will surely be missing the point.
Sara d’Amato – An enticingly inviting yet notably complex wine, the 2022 Le Difese masterfully balances the vibrancy of sangiovese with the intensity of cabernet sauvignon. On the palate, it unfolds in a swift cascade of refreshing acidity and subtle bitterness, softened by layers of delicate creaminess and tender fruit. Semi-firm tannins provide structure and depth, while nuances of salinity, iron, and tea leaf emerge, lingering gracefully on a finish of impressive length.

Domaine Queylus Droite 2020, Ontario, Canada
$45.70, Marchands des Ameriques
John Szabo – A polished and sophisticated, Bordeaux Right Bank-style blend (rive droite) of cabernet franc and merlot, in a fine Niagara vintage for these varieties. Aromatic complexities aside, it’s really the palate that beguiles with its silky, caressing texture, smooth and appealing, drinking really well though no rush. Part of the Women in Wine feature.
Sara d’Amato – This sophisticated, perfumed and well-structured cabernet franc, crafted by Kelly Mason, captivated my senses this week, justifying every bit of its premium price. Notably sophisticated, it’s perfectly ripened fruit showcases classic notes of violet, plum, black cherry and laurel with a whisper of iodine. A harmonious balance of vibrant acidity and a soft creaminess meld with supple tannins, leaving a lasting impression of notable depth and length.

Brancaia Riserva Chianti Classico 2020, Tuscany, Italy
$50.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – First tasted at the Chianti Classico Collection exactly two years ago, this superb wine from Brancaia has evolved highly favourably into a wine of terrific density, balance and depth. At the stylistic crossroads of Chianti Classico and Super Tuscan, and lovely stuff at that.
Megha Jandhyala – If you are looking for a special wine with which to treat yourself or someone you love, this Chianti Classico is a great choice. It is simultaneously captivating and poised, immediately charming, yet containing layers of flavour that unfurl with time. It is gorgeous now but will continue to evolve over the next few years.

That’s all for this report, see ‘round the next bottle.

John Szabo, MS

Use these quick links for access to all of our March 1st Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – March 1st
Lawrason’s Take – March 1st
Megha’s Picks – March 1st
Sara’s Selections – March 1st
Michael’s Mix – March 1st

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