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This is a delicious and admirably restrained Niagara Chardonnay from a great producer. It opens with austerity, lemon and minerals on the nose and palate, but the body fills out with pineapple, mango, and peach, and touches of butter and white pepper, but hardly too much of either. There is depth here, and an abundance of fruit, but the refreshing acidity cuts through any Chard flab while the minerality keeps everything grounded. It's a delicate balance. The tropical/orchard fruit does threaten to overwhelm, while the crispness softens. But up to that point it's quite lovely and vibrant.