Margaret Swaine’s Wine Picks: Chameleon Chardonnay

Chardonnay’s a chameleon grape that reflects the terroir, climate and winemaking to perfection when handled right. Find these quality Vintages picks via

Hartford Court Four Hearts Vineyards Chardonnay 2009  $47.95 (93 Points)

From vineyards in the heart of Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley, barrel fermented and stirred on the lees, this is unmistakable Californian with lots of style. Unfined and unfiltered, it’s concentrated with ripe fruit (tropical, tangerine, peach) and spicy oak in the bouquet and palate. A solid core of bright acidity, minerality and layers of flavours that linger raise this to a sublime level capable of seducing even non-chard lovers.

Seresin Chardonnay 2008 $24.95 (92 Points)

Seresin in New Zealand’s Marlborough region on the South Island achieves great local character in their wines from organically and biodynamically grown hand-picked grapes. Wild yeast fermented, aged in French barriques with one year on the lees, this is full bodied, stylish and textured. Flavourful and complex with well integrated oak, this has the ripe stone fruit of New World with an Old World subtle toastiness and refreshing acidity.

La Chablisienne Montmains Chablis 2009  $24.95 (90 Points)

A good solid delivery of France’s classic Chablis style from a well regarded cooperative established in 1923. The aromatic, fragrant bouquet has good minerality which carries through on the palate. Medium bodied it has no oak treatment to cover its fine citrus and terroir character that speaks of its fossilized limestone and marl soil.