If I Could Buy Only One – Oct 29th, 2016 VINTAGES Release
As part of our VINTAGES recap for October 29th, we asked our critics:
“If you could buy only one wine from this release – which one would it be and why?”
Our picks from the October 29th VINTAGES release:
Michael Godel – There may be no other Alsatian gewurztraminer more important than Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Cuvée Laurence. The reasons are many-fold but begin and end with memory and legacy. This is for daughter and sister Laurence Faller, the one her name is put to, that defines her gracious winemaking in echo of the estate she worked. Her family has carried the torch and yet her touch is all over this wine. This Laurence 2013 is a clear expression of the marly limestone soil beneath the lieu-dit of Altenbourg, located at the base of the great Grand Cru Furstentum vineyard. Where else do you find gewurztraminer of such delicasse, from which classic aromas (rose petal, creamy to boozy-syrupy tropical fruit) and impossible unction combine without ukase? Nowhere. The acidity does not act with impulse. No, it rings, supports and lingers. The extract is intense but out of mind. Exceptional vintage.
Sara d’Amato – The Radici Fiano is part of Mastroberardino’s premium “Cru” series, a site-specific project that strives to showcase unique expressions of local grape varietals. These grapes are sourced from the Santo Stefano del Sole estate, a picturesque raised terrace well exposed to sunshine and drying, cooling winds which allow for optimal retention of freshness. The result is elegant but at the same time with an abundance of personality and charm. Lightly tropical and blooming with white flower and orange blossom. A great example of how Campania whites are some of the world’s great values.
And, you might need to buy two of these…
David Lawrason – I have become a real fan of the wines of Dirk Niepoort, and I am not alone as this “Douro Boy” has become one of the new leaders of Portuguese winemaking, with prices to match. His style is lean, intense and savoury – quite different from the weighty, dense and powerful wines of the Douro. That style is taken even farther afield when he moves south to granitic soils and evergreen forests of the Dao region. Niepoort Dão Rótulo Red is very juicy, taut and energetic, bursting with crushed red and blackcurrant, mint, pine, and graphite. It’s a bit scrawny for some tastes perhaps but the focus and energy are impressive. And at under $20, I can’t resist.
John Szabo, MS – Balanced, fresh, drinkable reds with authentic regional character are often the order of the day, and there’s plenty of room in my cellar for them (since they disappear with alarming regularity). The Niepoort Dão Rótulo Red fits the bill perfectly. It’s a lovely, fragrant, very floral Dão red blend (touring national, jean/mencía and alfrocheiro) from Douro star Dirk Niepoort. The Rótulo range is designed to be “gastronomic”, and it hits the mark. I love the peppery freshness, the honest, grippy tannins, and the balanced, mid-weight palate that invites some salty protein. Drink or ideally cellar another year or two, if you can hide it from yourself.
From VINTAGES October 29th, 2016:
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