Szabo’s VINTAGES Preview – Sept 17th, 2016
Ontario Harvest 2016 Preview; Top Ontario Wines and International Smart Buys
by John Szabo, MS, with notes from Michael Godel and Sara d’Amato
If you’ve been following local wine postings, or are lucky enough to live in wine country, you know that harvest is already underway. This week I report on the progress: clement September weather has local vintners stoked about the potential for 2016. Several took time away from the sorting table to share their early-harvest thoughts. VINTAGES September 17th release also features Ontario, and the WineAlign crü picks their favorites, along with other worthy, winery-direct local bottles. A handful of smart international buys rounds it out, including a rare but lovely pinot noir, more South African value, an exciting grape you’ve never heard of from Spain, and a tidy red blend from one of my favorite Portuguese producers.
2016 Sun, Don’t Go Down On Me
Any winegrower will tell you that the last weeks and days before harvest can make or break it, so 2016 is by no means “in the books” just yet, despite a great deal of promise. Jay Johnston of Flatrock Cellars on the Niagara Escarpment has described it so far, as “a stellar growing season”. But as syrah specialist Rob Power of Creekside Estate reminds me: “What happens between Labour Day and Halloween calls the tune for Niagara. We’ve had good summers ruined by poor autumn weather, and conversely gone into September glumly and come out the other end with stellar fruit”.
But barring a sudden, disastrous shift in weather patterns, 2016 is looking sharp. “If the fall continues like it is now we will be in for a stupendous harvest” enthuses Paul Pender of Tawse, WineAlign’s Canadian Winery of the Year. Citizens of southern Ontario will recall the late spring and summer of 2016 as exceptionally hot and dry, following an unusually wet and generally miserable early spring, which was at times colder than winter. Such erratic weather must have given pause to even the most die-hard climate change skeptics.
Hot May weather sent vines into their growing cycle early: “Bud break was a week ahead of a typical year”, reports Keith Tyers from Closson Chase in Prince Edward County, “and the heat encouraged rapid growth”. Things were looking good from the start.
Later in the season heading into veraison – when grape skins change colour and begin to soften – the greatest concern was drought – the driest summer in 13 years of grape growing according to Tyers. A lack of water hampers ripening and reduces yields. Yet, “the rains did finally come”, Daniel Speck of Henry of Pelham tells me, “which was critical to sizing the fruit as well eliminating drought stress on the vines.”
More timely rains in an otherwise hot and dry August were also welcome: “The late summer rains were a godsend”, says Norm Hardie pointedly, who makes wine from both Niagara and Prince Edward County, “arriving just when pinot and chard were going through veraison.” Pender adds that the rain over the last three weeks has helped to plump up the clusters and push ripening.
Overall, growers are reporting healthy crops with few signs of disease (“super clean”, according to Pender), which is the arch-nemesis of Ontario wine growers. Yields are slightly higher than expected, though by no means excessive: “after the drought I didn’t expect the crop yields we are having. We’re close to the balanced, crop thinned yields we try to achieve each year”, says Shiraz Mottiar of Malivoire on the Beamsville Bench. Speck reports “a nicely sized crop of very high quality, much needed after two smaller than usual vintages in 2014/15.” It’s expected that moderate yields overall will also ensure above average concentration.
The continuing hot, sunny weather in September – Toronto announced several extreme heat advisories this past week alone – presents its own set of challenges. Chief among these is timing the harvest, as grapes ripen at record pace. “The key will be to get at [grapes] early and avoid overripeness and low acidities”, says Hardie, well-known for his early harvest policy.
But others agree: “These heat waves are ripening whites rapidly, and acidity levels are coming down fast”, Power tells me, though he was prepared. “We left more leaf area shading on clusters to try to hold them back a bit, which seems to be working”. Nevertheless, Creekside’s St David’s Bench Queenston Road Vineyard Viognier is well ahead of the ripening curve, looking like it usually does on October 1st (golden and translucent berries) on September 1st.
Another battle is waged over simple harvest logistics, a quality factor rarely considered by consumers. “Our biggest challenge in a year like this is that different grape varieties, usually harvested over 8 weeks or so, will ripen around the same time”, says Speck. This can cause endless headaches for winemakers as they struggle to fit the jigsaw puzzle together. “Managing tank space will be the biggest challenge”, confirms Mottiar. Some grapes might end up getting picked slightly early or late out of pure necessity.
In the case of Henry of Pelham, the Specks added a new Bucher Vaselin press this year to manage the anticipated onslaught of grapes: it doubles the amount of fruit we can handle”, Speck says. But not everyone will be as well prepared and equipped.
So what can we expect from 2016? Challenges notwithstanding, here are some forecasts from the folks who’ll be jumping on the grapes:
Norm Hardie, Hardie Wines: “While I think it will be a good year for early ripeners, the early start to the season and the current warm weather bodes very well for [later] Bordeaux varieties. Think 2012.”
Rob Power, Creekside: “I am excited by the way the reds are setting up ahead of schedule. Knock on wood.”
Keith Tyers, Closson Chase: “Lower yields will produce amazing quality”
Jay Johnston, Flatrock Cellars: “Chardonnay is showing great concentration right now and the pinot noir crop is the strongest we’ve had since 2013. The wine will be rich and deep, as long as this favourable weather continues! Riesling is always reliable and handles all sorts of difficult conditions. As long as we start cooling down and can maintain acidity & structure, we will have a great vintage. It’s an exciting year for winegrowing in Niagara, and likely across all of Ontario’s regions.”
Shiraz Mottiar: “Chardonnay may be the best I have ever seen it. With thick golden skins, the clusters are beautiful, not too tight, balanced and consistent throughout the vineyard. And of course I am always excited by gamay as, time and time again, we get vibrant fruit no matter the weather.”
Emma Garner, Thirty Bench Winery: “The dry heat has left us in a great position to be harvesting some of the most thrilling reds since 2012. The hot temperatures will make riesling a bit of a challenge due to the potentially rapid decrease in acid, however the cool nights on the horizon and wise picking/pressing decisions will help create flavourful wines with intense focus and weight.”
If these predictions are even only half-true, accounting for inevitable winemaker hyperbole (positivism?), especially when a wine critic is asking for the information, it’s gearing up to be a brilliant year for Ontario wine. This means much to look forward to. Knock on wood.
Until then, here are the top, chardonnay-heavy Ontario picks from the September 17th VINTAGES release, plus an additional handful of highly recommended local wines available from the wineries and at fine restaurants near you.
Our Top Picks from the Sept 17th VINTAGES release:
Buyers’ Guide: Ontario
Fielding 2015 Unoaked Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula (14.95)
John Szabo – Chardonnay, a neutral grape, often fails to excite in unoaked versions from most places around the world. But Fielding has managed to produce a well-balanced, fresh, fruity, simple but pleasant version in 2015, which, most importantly, offers lots of pleasure for an attractive price.
2015 Closson Chase K.J. Watson Vineyard Pinot Gris VQA Four Mile Creek (21.95)
John Szabo – When first tasted this past February as a tank sample, this had expectedly simple, straight-out-of-the-vat-aromatics. Revisiting it now, it has evolved nicely, shedding one-dimensional fermentation aromas and edging into a more complete, stony expression. Citrus and green apple still lead the way in a tighter style, you might say more grigio than gris, though the palate is fleshy and full enough, glycerous, with solid concentration. A pleasant bitterness lingers. Enjoy over the short term.
Featherstone 2014 Canadian Oak Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula (21.95)
John Szabo – The quality of Canadian oak has improved dramatically in my short career, and here in 2014, at one of the pioneer wineries to use it, it offers a nicely integrated spicy lift. The underlying wine is very solid indeed, properly lean and bright, balanced and fresh, with fine length, too. Showing well now, but surely even better after 2018.
Cuddy By Tawse Chardonnay 2013, VQA Niagara Peninsula ($24.95)
Michael Godel – Certainly adheres to a Paul Pender chardonnay stylistic; fragrant, redolent, perfumed, leesy and spicy, much like the Tawse Estate chardonnay. This is not one of Jim’s ballads per se but more of rocker. It may be chardonnay but it’s a bluesy, raw, get the Led out, first record type of thing. And it’s a great start.
Hidden Bench 2013 Chardonnay, VQA Beamsville Bench ($28.95)
Sara d’Amato – Proprietor Harald Thiel, Winemaker Marlize Beyers and Viticulturalist/Sommelier Joel Williams make one of the tightest and well-matched wine teams in Niagara. The focused and sensitively crafted 2013 Hidden Bench chardonnay is a testament to that synergy and talent. The 2013 vintage is a rich and terrifically satisfying example that does not rely on alcohol or excessive oak for texture or flavour. Great vines, the right decisions and deft winemaking to allow for a pure and layered expression of Niagara flavours.
John Szabo – A really terrific chardonnay here from Hidden Bench, at the top of the class. This has every bit the complexity, flavour, savouriness and seamlessly integrated wood of the best. Best 2016-2021.
Michael Godel – A best of both worlds Chardonnay; indicative of the giving vintage (in quality, not quantity, prestige, not prosper) and an Estate, house style. Really typifies and explains what a Marlize Beyers Chardonnay is. Elegant, stylish, with perfect tones and the soft vernacular of few yet precise words.
Also Currently in VINTAGES:
Château des Charmes 2014 St. David’s Bench Vineyard Gamay Noir Droit, VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara on the Lake $17.95
Pearl Morissette 2013 Cuvée Dix-Neuvième Chardonnay, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada ($38.20)
Tawse Sketches of Niagara 2014 Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula $18.20
Bachelder 2013 Lowrey Vineyard Pinot Noir, VQA St. David’s Bench, Niagara Peninsula ($44.95)
Closson Chase Vineyard 2014 Chardonnay, VQA Prince Edward County ($29.00)
Domaine Queylus 2014 Chardonnay Reserve du Domaine, Niagara Escarpment ($34.95)
Norman Hardie 2013 County Chardonnay Unfiltered, VQA Prince Edward County ($39.00)
Ravine Vineyard 2014 Cabernet Franc Lonna’s Block, VQA St. Davids Bench ($40.00)
Westcott Vineyards 2014 Lenko Old Vine Chardonnay, Beamsville Bench, Ontario, Canada ($32.95)
Buyers’ Guide: International Smart Buys
Man Family 2015 Warrelwind Sauvignon Blanc, WO Western Cape, South Africa ($13.95)
John Szabo – A perfectly serviceable sauvignon, with definition and depth well above the price category, indeed quite concentrated and complex. The finish lingers impressively, too, with a nice mixture of herbal-green pepper flavours and ripe citrus. Another solid value from South Africa.
Estay 2012 Prieto Picudo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León La Mancha, Spain ($15.95)
John Szabo – So, my experience with prieto picudo may exceed yours by only a single bottle – this one. But if it’s at all representative, the grape definitely merits greater exploration. I thoroughly enjoyed this savoury and dried red fruit-inflected wine in the old world idiom, made by a respected producer – Dominio Dos Tares – from Bierzo in north-western Spain. Tannins are moderate and lightly furry, acids nicely checked, and length and complexity impressive for the price. It’s a prime wine for those rustic grilled or stewed, protein-based dishes.
Quinta De Saes 2013 Red DOC Dão Dão ($18.95)
John Szabo – Álvaro Castro of Quinta de Saes (and sister property Quinta da Pellada) is a bit of a cult figure in Portugal, and increasingly outside, too. The reason is simple: his wines are great. This blend of touriga nacional, jaen and tinto roriz is crunchy, light, lean and low in tannin and wood impact, designed for current consumption with a light chill. But don’t let that description mislead – this is a very fine Dão wine, as it should be, with a sense of granitic minerality and infinite drinkability. I’d love to have a case of this at home for those special occasions, which only happen once a day or so.
Roger & Didier Raimbault 2013 Sancerre Rouge, AC Loire ($28.95)
John Szabo – Did you know that pinot noir was once more planted than sauvignon blanc in Sancerre? Plantings are on the rise once again, though it remains relatively scarce, which is too bad for fans of pinot’s pretty and fruity, juicy and succulent side, properly lean and firm. This has all of the freshness one hopes for in northern wines, also the delicacy and finesse. Enjoy over the short-mid-term with a light chill. Tidy.
That’s all for this week. See you over the next bottle.
John Szabo MS
From VINTAGES September 17th, 2016
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