Buyers’ Guide to VINTAGES – April 2, 2016
Old World Meets New and Cosmopolitan Syrah
By Sara d’Amato with notes from Michael Godel
The upcoming spring release offers more than a few head-turners. Those most memorable are the wines that defy the stereotypes of their origins. Many of these wines are featured in the carefully curated thematic of “New World vs. Old”, the spotlight in this April 2nd release. This grouping presents mirrored pairs of wines from the new world and old with a grape varietal or blend as their common ground. What you may expect are a collection of wines that are very modern representations from the new world and exaggeratedly traditional examples from the old world. Instead, these attentively chosen wines show a stylistic “rapprochement” in these often polarizing worlds. Thankfully and interestingly, we are afforded a selection of high quality new world wines with a focus on purity of fruit and structure while the old world selections offer cleanliness and approachability without the loss of a sense of place. In summary, the wines in this feature are worth discovering in pairs. Even better, have some fun blind tasting and put your pre-conceived notions to the test!
Also worth exploring are a selection of top quality syrahs from across the globe. From the changing style of Australian shiraz to the savoury, and compelling Rhône examples, to local gems, there is something for everyone in this collection. Put together a flight of these largely affordable syrahs to find out what makes each of these regions unique (and keep your friends guessing past April 1st). While doing so, be sure to scope out our double-alignment syrah from Burrowing Owl grown in the desert of the southern Okanagan Valley.
Next week, David and John will have returned from their global travels to offer their thoughts on this release and highlights of their wine expeditions. A couple of weeks later, we hope to see you when Prince Edward Country comes to town for the County in the City Buy and Taste Event as well as the Austrian Wine Fair on April 14th. There is a great deal to discover in April!
Deu la Deu 2014 Alvarinho, Monção E Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal ($19.95)
Sara d’Amato – A pure alvarinho Vinho Verde from northern Minho where some of the purest expressions of this varietal can be found. Don’t expect a simple, light, spritzy white as this version not only offers a great deal of fruit but also viscosity and structure. Sure to put a spring in your step.
Michael Godel – Vinho Verde with a twist, like a Pasteis de Nata swimming in a pool of moscatel liqueur. A far cry from the commercial Vinho Verde found on most LCBO shelves.
Sylvain Mosnier 2013 Côte De Lechet Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy, France
Michael Godel – Classic Chablis from a very old vineyard (belonged to the Pontigny’s monk) with southeast exposure west of the town of Chablis and just above the small village of Milly. What more could be asked of for this next to nothing 1er Cru Chablis price?
Loimer 2014 Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria ($21.95)
Sara d’Amato – A classic grüner veltliner offering peppery spice, zesty lime and green tea. A statement making white that is sure to turn heads.
Duquesa de Valladolid 2014 Verdejo, Rueda, Spain ($13.95)
Sara d’Amato – In case the freezing rain has sent you back into hibernation, crack open a bottle of this inexpensive verdejo that has the freshness of spring in a glass with notes crocuses, green apple and zesty lime.
Château Haut Philippon 2014, Entre Deux Mers, Bordeaux, France ($14.95)
Michael Godel – It seems that more and more I notice the wines of Entre-Deux-Mers are creeping into the positive vibrations of global sauvignon blanc pleasure. Here semillon and muscadelle lend capable hands to create harmony for a pittance.
Ravenswood 2014 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi, California ($19.95)
Michael Godel – Joel Peterson’s 2014 Old Vines Zinfandel reminds at times of schist syrah and alluvial flats grenache. There’s something about zinfandel old vines that educes such a pipe dream. Just imagine the reverie.
Burrowing Owl 2013 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada ($40.95)
Michael Godel – A combination of northern Rhone and B.C. desert character defines this perennial Okanagan This is a big syrah with plenty of time on its side. “Let it ride.”
Sara d’Amato – This southern Okanagan syrah rarely fails to deliver offering a blend of old world and new with firm structure and peppery, earthy flavours along with compact, ripe fruit.
Jim Barry 2013 The Lodge Hill Shiraz, Clare Valley, Australia ($24.95)
Sara d’Amato – A sophisticated, sultry syrah bursting with peppery, floral aromatics from its cooler climate locale. Powerful but not boastful.
Jean Luc Colombo 2012 Terres Brûlées Cornas Syrah, Rhône, France ($72.95)
Sara d’Amato – Fearless innovator Jean Luc Columbo not surprisingly offers an exquisite syrah from this very special, very rugged northern Rhône terroir with a great deal of natural spice. Gems from Cornas are rarely on the shelves for long especially when part of a small In-Store Discovery release such as this so don’t miss out.
Fabre Montmayou 2013 Reserva Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina ($18.95)
Michael Godel – A stylistically firm Mendoza malbec possessive of a backbone to improve with three to five years in the cellar. Though it was a perennial steal at $16, the price increase brings it in line with the level of its quality.
Alois Cunto Pallagrello 2011 Nero, Terre del Volturno, Campania, Italy ($24.95)
Michael Godel – Possibly an ode to the 17th century fairytale “Lo cunto de li cunti,” the tale of tales, or story of stories, now called Pentamerone by seventeenth-century Italian poet and courtier Giambattista Basile. If that collection of tales could influence the form of fairytales in Europe, perhaps the Alois Palagrello Nero can do the same for natural wine.
Maison Chanzy 2013 Rully en Rosey, Burgundy, France ($26.95)
Michael Godel – Rully is better known for Chardonnay but this is a stellar example of its pinot noir. Blessed with Côte Chalonnaise’s own specific tangy red fruit flavour and really ripe tannins. A poor person’s Burgundy bargoon.
Château Lamartine 2011 Cuvée Particulière, Cahors, Southwest, France ($26.95)
Sara d’Amato – French malbec is often overlooked, often, simply because it doesn’t don the market worthy varietal name on the label and sometimes lacks the overt fruity character more common in its South American home. This example offers the best of both worlds, however, with a great deal of fruit, firm tannins and nicely balanced acidity.
From VINTAGES April 2, 2016
Editors Note: You can find complete critic reviews by clicking on any of the highlighted wine names, bottle images or links. Paid subscribers to WineAlign see all critics reviews immediately. Non-paid members wait 60 days to see new reviews. Premium membership has its privileges; like first access to great wines!