Buyers’ Guide to VINTAGES – March 19, 2016
Spring is in the air, and in the glass…
By Sara d’Amato with notes from Michael Godel
A strong showing from France and South Africa in this springtime release piqued our attention this week. As the weather warms, our preferences naturally shift to wines that are refreshing, energetic and stripped down. So if that uncontrollable urge to purge, freshen and keep fit has you motivated, we have chosen a selection of nervy, palate cleansing and floral whites that should fit the bill. Rainy times are also ahead and what better remedy is there than to curl up inside, out of the fog, with a spicy glass of heartening red offering comforting appeal. Whatever your mood and whatever the weather, we have you covered with our top picks from both camps.
Although a substantial selection of generic Italian wine was featured in this week’s VINTAGES release, it was largely hit and miss. John highlighted a couple interesting whites in his VINTAGES Preview last week, and I selected a Gavi below. Israel also received a much-anticipated mini-feature that was rather disenchanting with largely problematic and oxidative selections save for a gem or two. Outside of those thematics, we have one double alignment on a mouthwatering, high-end pinot noir from Hamilton Russell, a producer whose infatuation with the expression of terroir rivals most in Burgundy.
If an Easter feast is on the horizon than you will have ample choice given our range of picks from bubbly to fresh, aromatic whites and reds ranging from light and complex to peppery and sensual. If pairing wines over the holidays with dishes that involve sweet, minty sauces or if honey and maple syrup should accompany your mains, choose red wines that are low in tannins and whites that have a rich, fruity base. Without further ado, our top dinner table picks:
Graham Beck Premier Cuvée Brut Blanc de Blancs 2010, Robertson, South Africa ($23.95)
Michael Godel – In which Méthode Cap Classique meets Blanc de Blancs executed to near Cape perfection, especially at this price point by a winemaker (Pieter Ferreira) and a house expertly versed in Sparkling wine production. Robertson Chardonnay with a purpose.
Guasti Clemente 2014 Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont, Italy ($19.95)
Sara d’Amato – From the cortese grape, Gavi wines can range from subtle to energetic but the finest are prettily aromatic and elegant in nature. Unfortunately, the selection of Gavi released by VINTAGES of late has been rather hit or miss so I am particularly pleased to have come across this absolutely fetching example – upbeat, widely appealing and brimming with zesty flavour.
Domaine Besson 2013 Chablis, Burgundy, France ($28.95)
Sara d’Amato – A pure, full-on, traditional Chablis with welcoming notes of honey and beeswax along with citrus, mineral and a hint of a lactic character that adds dimension and personality. An independent, family owned winery, winemaker Camille and her brother and viticulturalist, Adrien, represent a new generation of producers respecting the traditions of the past.
Charles Baker 2012 Picone Vineyard Riesling, Vinemount Ridge, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada ($35.20)
Sara d’Amato – Not the first opportunity I’ve had to taste this exceptional riesling but the first occasion as it comes out of its shell of austerity. Its stony, mineral character is brought to life by freshness and energy along with notes of saline and juicy citrus.
Hamilton Russell 2014 Pinot Noir, Hemel en Aarde Valley, Walker Bay, South Africa, ($57.95)
Sara d’Amato – A lighter but hugely complex pinot noir, brooding and still enigmatic. Smoky, with charred fruit, black licorice and pine needles, cedar and cherry. Firm structure gives the wine opportunity to age. An expensive addiction!
Michael Godel – Having tasted the forward and accessible 2014 at and alongside some old vintages of Bouchard Finlayson in South Africa back in September, perspective is here revealed for this tougher 2014. It must have been a demanding drop in its early youth, as it still is, but the inherent Hemel En Aarde Valley sweetness is guaranteed. The Valley is Grand Cru South African Pinot Noir territory and this HR is no exception.
Château De l’Ou Infiniment Syrah 2012, Igp Côtes Catalanes, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($25.95)
Michael Godel – Can a wine be so bloody versed in the ways of modern Syrah architecture and still achieve balance? Within the context of objective assessment the question may not be will it please but rather, will it succeed? Yes to the second and yet subjective experience calls on you to provide the answer to the first.
Le Gravillas Séguret 2014 Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhône, France ($16.95)
Sara d’Amato – An inexpensive treat from the Southern Rhône not to be overlooked. Peppery spice on the palate is softened by fruity grenache of solid typicity. Impressive concentration is noted in this vintage along with notable and winsome “garrigue”.
Château Coufran 2005, Haut Médoc, Bordeaux, France ($56.95)
Michael Godel – Well made and properly preserved Haut-Medoc that while not inexpensive is a must buy for those who can afford and want to drink older Bordeaux. A show piece for the dinner table without having to raid someone else’s cellar.
Spring is also bringing some great wine fairs to Toronto and Ottawa – for trade and consumers alike. You can find all the details and special offers on our site by following these links: California Wine Fair and the Austrian Wine Fair.
Hope to see you there!
From VINTAGES March 19, 2016
Editors Note: You can find complete critic reviews by clicking on any of the highlighted wine names, bottle images or links. Paid subscribers to WineAlign see all critics reviews immediately. Non-paid members wait 60 days to see new reviews. Premium membership has its privileges; like first access to great wines!