Vintages Preview February 15th with David Lawrason, John Szabo and Sara d’Amato
New Format, Same Great Picks and Values + The Stars Align
We are re-tooling the editorial plan at WineAlign in the days ahead to make better use of our vast array of talent, and bring you more timely, comprehensive and authoritative reviews and articles. This is partially due to the imminent addition of four top wine critics from Quebec, who join our four writers in B.C. and six in Ontario. You will see a wider range of topics and viewpoints – some geared specifically to helping you shop wisely with WineAlign, others to bring you the wide world of education and perspective.
Our coverage of VINTAGES twice-monthly releases in Ontario will be changing but not diminishing. Before each release there will still be two separate previews with combined contributions from David Lawrason, John Szabo and Sara d’Amato.
The first preview, published eight days ahead of the release, will go into depth on the theme that VINTAGES sets out, providing alternative, more objective coverage than found in their magazine. It will be authored by one critic, with review inputs from the team. It may also include wines on the same theme that are available through the LCBO general list, VINTAGES new Shop Online platform (see below) or on consignment. See the first edition on French wines by John Szabo published last week.
The second preview will present non-themed picks from the VINTAGES release from all three critics – David, John and Sara. And where we independently converge on a specific wine it will be singled out in a section called “The Stars Align”. Today marks the first edition of this preview.
Where The Stars Align
(Wines independently highlighted by two or more WineAlign critics)
Fleur De California Pinot Noir 2011 ($19.95) gets two thumbs up from David and Sara. One of the prettiest versions of this cooler climate pinot noir in recent memory and one that hasn’t increased in price from 2008 – also refreshing. Light, fragrant but with surprising complexity – certainly worth a go at this price (SD). Nice crossover of cool and warm climate styles – eminently drinkable, good value pinot from a Carneros expert (DL).
Castorani Amorino 2007 Montepulciano D’abruzzo Casuria ($27.95) was scored 90+ by both John and David. A fully mature, flavourful, complex example of montepulciano, which brings to mind very good level Brunello di Montalcino with its similar range of savoury, ripe, dusty red berry-cherry aromatics and wild herbal notes (JSz). Certainly more sophistication and complexity than most wines from Abruzzi (DL).
2010 Thorn-Clarke William Randell Shiraz Barossa ($43.95). A hugely satisfying shiraz in the old Barossa style: full-blown, ripe, jammy, buttery and generously proportioned. This makes no concessions to the modern wave of leaner, tighter Australian wines, yet a sense of proportion is nonetheless maintained (JSz). The best wine I have ever tasted from this flavour-forward house – this is Barossa on steroids (DL).
Burning Kiln 2012 Stick Shaker Savagnin, Ontario ($24.95) is something you just must try. Savagnin, the great white grape of Jura, is rare in Ontario, and in the hands of boundary pushing winemaker Andrejz Lipinski (also Big Head, Cornerstone) it hits amazing heights. Burning Kiln is the new, smart winery on Lake Erie near Port Dover.
Tawse 2012 Sketches Of Niagara Riesling, Niagara Peninsula ($17.95) is the new vintage of one of the winningest little rieslings in Ontario’s history. While Tawse makes single vineyard, older vine rieslings that have more complexity and minerality, this simpler version lights up with pitch-perfect acid-sugar balance and purity.
Wente 2011 Louis Mel Sauvignon Blanc, Livermore Valley, San Francisco Bay ($17.95). You may be surprised to see a California sauvignon in this list, because it is not a strong variety in the Golden State. This hails however from some of the oldest SB vines in the state, in a forgotten area that has been turning out solid white Bordeaux – styles wines for almost 40 years. A steal given the complexity it packs.
Mission Hill 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, B.C. ($24.95). Mission Hill stunned the world last year when its Martin Lane’s single vineyard pinot from a site near the winery in Westbank captured a Decanter trophy for best pinot under £15. Given the vitality, nerve and complexity of this less expensive Reserve from the same vintage, I am no longer surprised. Nor, in this context, am I surprised by Mission Hill’s recent acquisition of CedarCreek, which owns plenty of good pinot noir vineyard across the lake.
Tasca d’Almerita 2009 Cygnus Nero d’Avola/Cabernet Sauvignon, Sicily, Italy ($19.95) is a huge value and an intoxicating wine, in the best way. Great wine carries a sense of place and the ebullient fragrance of this blend transported me instantly to the cool, hilltop site of one of the best wineries in all of Italy. It’s unusual so don’t load up until you try it for yourself; but it is a savoury red to be reckoned with.
Montefino 2005 Tinto Reserva , Alentejano, Portugal ($17.95) is a must buy for any fans of mature Euro reds. It is so fragrant, complex and seamlessly built. I just can’t believe the price given its quality and age! Portugal has long suffered from under-valuation, but that is our gain as consumers if you are willing to buy off the grid.
John Szabo’s Smart Buys
Quinta Das Marias 2011 Encruzado Dão ($16.95). A complex and flavourful encruzado, one of the star indigenous grapes in a country with over two hundred. It’s reminiscent of viognier with its unctuous, glycerous texture and very ripe orchard and tropical fruit flavours, well suited to full flavoured dishes, cream sauces and white meats, even lightly spiced coconut curries.
Boutari 2012 Santorini ($17.95). Characteristically shy on the nose, but the palate delivers significant weight and flesh, density and the particular salty flavour derived from the volcanic soils of the island. Grapefruit and lemon rind notes linger.
Colomé 2012 Torrontés Calchaquí Valley, Salta, Argentina ($13.95). A smart value in a simple, pungent, highly aromatic white wine, with genuine acids and cut. Complexity may be modest, but the flavour impact and length are satisfying at the price.
Waterkloof 2011 Circle Of Life ($24.95). Not especially aromatic, but the palate delivers impressive concentration and a wide range of flavours, not least of which is a scorching streak of minerality. Despite richness and alcoholic warmth, there’s sufficient underlying acidity to prop up the ensemble and keep it balanced if not exactly fresh, but in any case this is a wine of texture and depth, not freshness.
Saltram 2010 Limited Release Winemaker’s Selection Shiraz Tempranillo Barossa Valley, Australia ($44.95). This is like a warm sweater on a cool winter’s night, enveloping, comforting, satisfying. Plush, intense dark fruit combines with generous but balanced alcohol and great length. Drinking well now, though will hold until the end of the decade and easily beyond. An innovative blend.
Pier Rio Sordo 2009 Barbaresco ($28.95). This is a long way from prime drinking, but the palate shows excellent promise, with very good structure and depth, not to mention length. I’d revisit this in 2-4 years – it has classic firmness and pleasant rusticity.
Sara’s Sommelier Picks
White and the Reds
Southbrook Vineyards Triomphe Chardonnay 2012 Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario ($22.95). A medalist at the National Wine Awards this year, the Southbrook Whimsy chardonnay earned top scores among critics. The Triomphe is Southbrook’s more reasonably priced ranged aimed at everyday entertaining. Carefully produced from organically grown grapes, this chardonnay delivers exceptional balance and class for a fair price. Not to be missed.
Jackson Triggs Niagara Estate Grand Reserve Shiraz 2011 Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($24.95). No doubt about it – Jackson Triggs knows its way around this grape varietal that has proven a bit of a gamble in Niagara. However, this cool climate style is quite riveting and is a testament that Niagara’s perseverance can result in show stopping results. This traditional Rhone varietal can actually thrive in slightly cooler climates and expresses itself in a peppery and enticing aromatic way.
Malivoire Gamay 2012 Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($17.95). #GoGamayGo – fans of Niagara wines have been touting the greatness of this varietal in Niagara for several years now. Personally, I hope to see much more of this “Cru style” on the shelves of the LCBO in years to come as it is such an exciting, food friendly and locally expressive varietal. Besides, Malivoire’s winemaker has one of the best names in the business: Shiraz Mottiar!
Artezin Zinfandel 2011, Mendocino County, California ($21.95). As the name suggest, Artezin has focused on this one varietal but has recently branched out to petit sirah as well. In fact, this zin contains a small dose of the aforementioned, robust varietal. Nevertheless, the wine remains true to varietal character with zesty raspberry is medium-bodied and boasts a plethora of authentic berry fruit flavours. The oak is spicy rather than sweet making this both commercially appealing but also a bit a challenging. The producer works closely with sustainable and family-owned growers across California. Great value.
Hess Collection 19 Block Cuvée 2009 Napa Valley, California ($47.95). Mount Veeder’s slopes are home to some of the most sought after wines in Napa. With the lowest yields of the region and a rugged terrain featuring volcanic soils that require careful hand harvesting and little to no mechanization, you can bet there is a price tag to match. This is certain to make any collector quite happy.
Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Shiraz Grenache 2011 ($19.95). Australia has been a major focus of the LCBO as of late and it is delightful to see a greater range of these lighter, fresher and more reserved, “new age” wines hit the shelves. I was fortunate to sit down with Kilikanoon’s proprietor, and renowned storyteller, Nathan Waks, who has long been a fan of this pared down style. Although this amount of delectable pepper is a product of the cool 2011 vintage in Clare Valley, the vibrancy, succulent mouthfeel and balance is quite characteristic. Will delight both fans of the Old World and New.
VINTAGES ReLaunches Online Sales Platform
WineAlign is not the only website on the move it seems. VINTAGES has just re-launched its Shop Online purchasing platform to consolidate its entire web-based business. VintagesShopOnline.com makes good sense to us, and we look forward to easier use of it ourselves and hopefully providing more and more reviews of the wines that appear on the Shop Online site. Ordering for a new slate of Classic Catalogue items begins February 20.
And that is a wrap for this edition. We look forward to your feedback. And watch WineAlign in the days ahead as we head into the home stretch before the Vancouver International Wine Festival. If you have never been, you might want to seriously consider booking a spur of the moment weeks holiday, or long weekend getaway.
From the February 15, 2014 Vintages release:
Editors Note: You can find our critics complete reviews by clicking on any of the wine names, bottle images or links highlighted. Paid subscribers to WineAlign see all critics reviews immediately. Non-paid users wait 30 days to see new reviews. Membership has its privileges; like first access to great wines!